To Westside and back


Day 3

Plan: Since it’s the first business day of the week, head straight over to Jamieson’s Spinning Mill in Sandness on the Westside of Mainland. In the afternoon return to Lerwick and check out the new museum. Time permitting do some shopping on Commercial street. In the evening head over to Isleburgh Exhibition.

Jamieson's sign
Jamieson’s is the only mill on the island that spins and sells Shetland wool so of course I had to go check it out first thing Monday morning.

Although I knew from various sources that it was about 30 miles from Lerwick I wasn’t too sure how long it would take to get there. It’s on the Westside of Mainland, well off the beaten tourist track but probably on every Fair Isle hand knitter’s radar. To get there one first goes north on the main highway until the turn off to Weisdale Mill. Until last fall this mill housed the Shetland Textile Working Museum. Sadly, the textile collection is currently without a home. I hope the Shetland Guild of Spinners, Weavers & Dyers can find a new home soon. I’d love to see their collection some day. After Weisdale the road veers west and eventually gets narrower the closer one gets to the mill. The landscape is quite different from the south. It’s a remote rock strewn landscape with very few houses but sheep everywhere. An odd place to find a spinning mill.

We arrived around 9:30 and poked our heads in the door. The place looked and sounded deserted. NobodyBreakroom was in the office and we didn’t see any one near the door to the mill. I was too shy to wander around the place looking for someone so we waited for several minutes before someone eventually appeared. A woman guided us to the “start” of the mill near the weaving looms and then promptly left. We stayed at the looms for about 10 minutes but the woman didn’t reappear. Besides one guy attending the weaving looms the place seemed to be void of workers. When it didn’t seem like the woman would return we moved along stopping at each machine and guessing its purpose. Having read a bit about spinning mills and previously visiting a Mission Mill Museum, I had a good idea of what each machine did. So I guide us through the process. If you are interested in seeing most of the machines here’s a link to my photo album. I can’t promise that the descriptions are totally accurate.

After being there an hour or so we happened to come across the break room and could hear people on the other side. When a man, whom I think was Peter Jamieson, came out the door I commented on how it looked like things were kind of slow this morning. He said that they wrap up production on Friday and start over again every Monday. So from that comment, I  guess he’s saying that it takes a while to ramp up on Monday. Perhaps we caught them between dye lots. He also commented that some machines in another part of the mill were running.

Jumper parts After passing by all the wool processing machines we came across a room where several knitting machines were spitting out jumper (sweater) pieces. Most of the colorways really didn’t appeal to my sense of color. But as the saying goes, to each his own. I suspect these jumpers end up in Japan.

Yarn for ArabesqueEventually we wound up at shop door and found someone to let us in. I easily by passed the stacks of blankets and jumpers for the huge wall of yarn – floor to ceiling of cubby holes filled with yarn. I started pulling out yarns looking for enough to make Arabesque from A Collector’s Item. Again we were left alone, which I didn’t really mind. I was stunned by this cathedral of yarn.

After sorting through yarn for a half hour and having a hard time finding several that I needed, Paul went off to find someone to help out. The woman who we saw at the beginning of our visit appeared. She said she wasn’t surprised that several colors were not out because  a bunch of knitters had been in on Friday (maybe from the Skeins and Skerries tour?) and the shelfs hadn’t been restocked. She gladly took down the colors I needed and went off to fetch them from the mill. She couldn’t find one color so I asked if she could check with the shop in Lerwick to see if they had it. I was in luck. They had one bag that I could pick up when I got back to town.

sheep

Around noon I finally settled my yarn purchases and was ready to head back to town. I wanted to pick up that last remaining pack of yarn before the clerk at the shop forgot about the call. She didn’t seem all that helpful the last time I was there.

So that’s only the first half of the day. More to come later.

South Mainland Shetland

Day 2

Plan: Since most shops are closed on Sunday I planned to hit the sights open Sunday. If we found Flavour of Shetland  interesting we could go there before driving south from Lerwick to Sumburgh Head. On the way to Sumburgh Head we’ll stop at Jarlshof, a prehistorical archaeological site before heading up to the light house to see if we can find any puffins. If time permits stop at Croft House Museum.

Sumburgh Lighthouse

On Saturday evening we followed the parade back to town and despite our nap earlier in the evening, still felt worn out.  Sleeping that night was difficult. The noise coming from the street sounded as if every one in town was out and about making the most of “simmer dim”.  I don’t know if it’s the norm around there but I did happen to noticed that one pub listed closing time as 3:00am (about 1/2 hour before sunrise).

Despite all the revelry, the town hall bells chiming every 15 minutes and the lack of darkness, we woke
up on Sunday morning bright and early for breakfast at 7:30. Over breakfast we discussed the day’s plan and decided to avoid the crowds at Flavour of Shetland and head south to enjoy the wonderful weather.

Jarlshof
Our first stop was Jarlshof, a settlement that goes back to prehistoric times. We arrived just after it opened and for about one hour were the only ones there. The site was interesting and I enjoyed visiting the place but I’m not a prehistory buff. I figured this would interest Paul. As you can see it was a beautiful clear morning and I enjoyed the spectacular view from one of the buildings.

When we walked back to the car we noticed a local old guy selling sheep skins and a few knitted items (made by his wife) in the parking lot. We briefly talked. He mentioned how people that raise sheep on the island really don’t make much money and that wool prices weren’t good. I looked through the knitted items but didn’t see anything that caught my eye.

puffinsOur guide book mentioned puffins hang out near the lighthouse so we headed off up the hill in our car. About 1/2 mile from the lighthouse we arrived at a parking area near the gate to the lighthouse. We had to get out there and walk the rest of the way up.  It didn’t take long to find the birds. They were just beyond the other side of a short rock wall in front of the lot. At first it was difficult to get close enough for a good picture but when we walked several yards towards a cliff near the gate we got close enough to snap some good photos. Aren’t they cute? It was so fun to watch them land and take off. I later read that it’s best to look for them in the afternoon as they come home to feed the chicks after fishing all day.

At noon we decide to head down and find a place to eat. At the bottom of the hill, near Jarlshof, we popped our heads into the bar at Sumburgh Hotel to see if they had a table available. We got lucky and grabbed the last one as people started streaming in looking for a place to eat.

Mrs. Brown knitting After lunch we head north until we came across one of those signs along the road that pointed the direction to knitwear. The first one that we happened upon was the Shetland Collection. It was Sunday so I wasn’t really expecting it to be open but when we drove up and got out of the car we were cheerfully greeted by the man out front replacing plants in the garden. He fetched his wife who came from the house to opened the shop. It was a small shop but everything in there was so beautiful. Not only did she have Fair Isle garments but she also had the most delicate lace shawls. I mentioned that I was a knitter and she immediately whisked me over to her studio to show me her knitting machines and also how she does handwork using a knitting belt. I was so amazed by her enthusiasm and willingness to spend time chatting about Fair Isle knitting and her work. I just about died when she opened drawer after drawer to a small cabinet that contained Fair Isle swatches (drawer 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) all arranged by color and/or theme. What an inspiration!

In the shop she not only had Fair Isle garments but had some exquisite lace shawls. While talking about lace she mentioned Myrna Stahman’s visit last summer and that the pattern for one of the shawls will be in Myrna’s next book. Well, needless to say, I wanted to buy everything but settled for a couple of fingerless gloves and hats. I could have stayed there much longer but knew Paul was probably ready for something else.

Croft House Museum_shawl_2>We drove up the road a couple of miles and stopped at the Croft House Museum .This Happ Shawl immediately caught my attention. Click on the picture and look closer at how it’s attached to the frame. String is strung through the tips along the border and then the shawl is strung around the pegs on the edge of the frame.

This house (and probably all croft houses) only had a couple of rooms and was very dark. A smoky peet fire was burning when we stepped in which didn’t make it a very enjoyable place to hang out. After taking a quick tour of the house we went on a short jaunt along a small path down to the mill. Plenty of sheep were on either side of the path, doing whatever sheep do. A couple of times I tried to get close but they’d just run away. I don’t know if they’re always so scared of people in general or wise enough to recognize a spinner when they see  one. None looked like Shetland sheep.

Since we’d already driven the  main road to Lerwick the day we arrived Paul decide to veer left and take a small loop that leads west. We ended up at a picturesque tombolo beach that jets out to St. Ninian’s Ise. A few folks were enjoying the windy weather.

St Ninian  Isle_2

By this time the weather had changed and the sky turned grey. We headed back to Lerwick to find a place to eat dinner.

We eventually ended up at an Indian restaurant and as usual I ordered Chicken Jalfrezi. I was surprised when the waiter kept insisting that the dish I was pointing to on the menu would be to hot for me. He recommended a different Jalfrezi. To this day I’m still puzzled by this. Who in Shetland can eat that dish? I don’t remember seeing many Indians during my visit. Now I regret not ordering it and showing him that there are some white folks that do eat hot food (four – five star hot).

Really, I mean no harm. Trust me.

Chasing woolJust two days after I got home from my trip to Shetland (now two weeks ago) my sister called and asked if she, her kids and my mother could come visit the following weekend. My nephew had qualified for a regional track meet in this area and wanted to drop by. That was last weekend. Last Sunday, I just barely found time to load the first days worth of pictures from our trip.

This week I was desperately finishing my homework for the Nihon Vogue classes with Jean. I was in good shape until Tuesday when I noticed that I had incorrectly redrawn my vest pattern. Wednesday I went to monthly guild meeting. Thursday I started drawing the vest pattern over one more time. I also started feeling a cold coming on. Friday I stayed up late knitting another swatch for class. Today and yesterday I’ve been in class all day.

The Sudafed has worn off and I’m wiped out.

I managed to load more photos of my Shetland trip  this evening but that’s about all I can manage. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll have more energy to write.

The above photo was taken in the Highlands at Leault Farm. I think this pet lamb was a bit suspicious of my motives.

A feral knitter goes to Shetland

If you haven’t realized it, I love to travel. My most memorable trips tend to be ones that include unique fiber related experiences. No, I don’t try to visit every yarn store possible. I’m pretty lucky to live in an area with lots of yarn stores and can usually find just about any type/brand of yarn right here.  I’d rather seek out what I can’t find in my backyard. Although,with that being said, I did over hear my husband once remark to a shop owner that we’re on a worldwide tour of yarn stores. Despite this remark, he’s been a good sport and I honestly think he always finds something that interests him as long as we don’t spend most of our time in yarn shops.

The idea to go to Shetland germinated shortly after our trip to the Pyrenees last Fall. That trip was his idea so it was my turn to choose where to go next. When it came time to buy our tickets he mentioned that the Tour de France was starting in London this year so he’d be even more happy to go to Shetland if we could also see the prologue. I checked the events calendar on Visit Shetland and found that the Flavour of Shetland would be taking place two weeks before “Le Grand Depart”. So that settled the issue of how long our vacation would be – two weeks. We would try to make it to the last couple of days of the Flavour of Shetland and the first day of the Tour de France.

Next, I needed to decide how long to spend on Shetland. I wanted to stay a week but Paul couldn’t fathom finding much to do there and suggested staying a few days. I listed all places I wanted to see and finally settled on 4 full days. Later the in-laws decided to take a tour of Scotland about the same time so we all decide to meet up in the Highlands. After a few days wander around the Highlands we move on to Edinburgh and then headed on to London.

Day One

Plan: Arrive at Sumburgh Airport at 12:30pm and pick up the rental car. Drive to Lerwick and check into Fort Charlotte Guest House. Walk over to the Flavour of Shetland if we weren’t too tired.

The last leg of our long flight was on a small Saab airplane from Edinburgh. The weather was terrible when we took off from Edinburgh but once our plane was ten minutes away the skies cleared and the down pour stopped. We arrived at the airport about a half our later than schedule due to a short wait for a late arriving passenger and immediately picked up the rental car.  The road from Sumburgh to Lerwick cuts across the landing strip so cars are required to stop whenever a plane lands. My first impression was of a very rural place with no trees but the landscape was very green and sheep as far as the eye could see.

Fingerless glovesOn the drive to Lerwick we spotted three signs along the roadside that  advertised the way to knitwear studios. It was hard to pass these studios but I also wanted to catch the end of the festival in Lerwick. I kick myself for not stopping when we drove past a crofter sheering a sheep along the side the road. That’s not something I think I’ll ever see again.

Vikings walking up Ft. Charlotte streetThe festival was in full swing when we arrived making it difficult to find a parking spot anywhere near the guest house. We ended up parking at the top of the hill and hauled our backpacks down. Once we checked in and washed up we headed down to Victoria Pier. I was quite shocked to find the place packed with so many people. It was hard to move around between tents to visit the crafts, demos and events. The enthusiasm of the locals was heartwarming but after having travel so long that day, the crowd became overwhelming. We dashed between the dozen or so craft booths and entertainment tents before heading back the guest house for a nap. The best part was the pair of fingerless gloves that we found in Barbara Isbister’s tent. You see, he requested such a pair many months ago but for various reasons they’ve never materialized. I”m so glad he found these. I’m finally off the hook, right?

On the way back to the guest house I poked my head into Jamiesons and  Spiders Web.  Spiders Web was quite busy so I decide to go back on Monday when the festival was over. I’ll mention more about these shops later.

The nap lasted a few hours until Paul woke up and decided see if he could move the car closer. As he was leaving I caught a sight of a group of “vikings” walking up the hill. I figured that the festival must have been winding down and folks were heading home.

Oh, was I wrong. When Paul returned about five minutes later he mentioned seeing lots of folks gathering up the hill. Some event was about to begin. Not wanting to miss out, I quickly got dressed and we scurried up the hill just in time to find that a parade forming. We had just woken up in time for the beginning of the Midsummer Carnival.

Check out my photo album of this parade – a chance to see local folks actually wearing traditional Fair Isle jumpers.

I have many more photos to load and will try to get them up soon.

Back from Shetland

Fair Isle

Sorry for the long absence but I’ve been away on vacation in the UK. Each day was so packed with activities that I never got a chance find a computer. Yes, two whole weeks without logging on!

The first four days we drove around Mainland Shetland –  checked out the
summer festival, visited knitwear studios, bought yarn, visited
museums, enjoyed the scenery and observed the wildlife. I didn’t want to
leave but we had already arranged to meet up with up with family in
Inverness. For the next few days we stayed at B&B near Beauly and we drove around the highlands of Scotland and visited museums,  saw a sheep dog demonstration and soaked in more wonderful scenery. Then it was off to Edinburgh after dropping folks
off at the airport in Glasgow (two days after the attack). We spent three days in Edinburgh before heading on to London to see a Shakespeare play at the Globe and watch the start of
the Tour de France.

The photo was taken during our ferry ride from Lerwick to Aberdeen. It’s the closest that I got to Fair Isle.

I’m just now getting a chance to sort through my email and load photos. Stay tuned for more details.